—by Charlie Boyd
Balancing world-first technical features with stylistic panache, here are five of the most talked-about timepieces from this year’s Watches and Wonders fair in Geneva.
01 The watch that keeps time for millennia
Portugieser Eternal Calendar by IWC Schaffhausen
While it is hard for most of us toß argue that we need a watch that will remain accurate for 45 million years, it is certainly impressive to be able to say you have one. For 2024, the aviation watch pioneer has unveiled the very first eternal calendar watch that features an astonishing ‘Double Moon’ moon phase display which does exactly that, illustrating both the northern and southern hemispheres. If that weren’t impressive enough, the watch also features a 400-year gear system that accurately incorporates leap years and skipped leap years, meaning its calendar will remain correct without any adjustment until the year 3999. A truly extraordinary creation for those who love a talking-point timepiece.
02 The miniature icon
Mini Royal Oak by Audemars Piguet
Released a few weeks after Watches and Wonders, Audemars Piguet’s latest novelty is shaping up as one of the most coveted women’s watches of the year. Flicking through street style photography from any fashion week you will always find a crop of stylish tastemakers sporting the iconic Royal Oak, and now, its distinctive ‘boyfriend watch’ aesthetic has been translated into a petite and punchy design with a 23mm dial. It houses a quartz movement, is available in three colourways (yellow, rose and white 18-carat gold) and is finished in the maison’s signature shimmering frosted gold, offering a dazzling lustre like nothing else.
03 The world’s most complicated watch
Les Cabinotiers Berkley Grand Complication by Vacheron Constantin
For the last nine years, Swiss watchmaker Vacheron Constantin has held the record for creating the most complicated watch in the world. This year, the maison widened the gap between its competitors by introducing a new model that outdoes even its own personal best. A one-of-a-kind bespoke commission, the timepiece boasts 63 complications, including the world’s first Chinese perpetual calendar, and is the sum total of 11 years of research and development. Measuring more than 9cm in diameter and weighing almost 1kg, this is an epic piece of haute horlogerie that certainly brings new meaning to the term ‘pocket watch’.
04 The watch that tells time backwards
Santos-Dumont Rewind by Cartier
Forget minor tweaks to trimmings, this year Cartier has spoiled us with an entirely new iteration of the Santos-Dumont, which conceals a clever trick in plain sight. Featuring a platinum case, carnelian dial, and a ruby cabochon upon the crown, the Santos-Dumont Rewind also has a feature that we never knew we needed: it tells the time backwards. Whimsically, the model’s signature Roman numeral markers are inverted, counting down clockwise from 11 to one. Its movement is similarly reversed; it winds backwards thanks to a cleverly inverted mechanism. Effortlessly stylish, it also gives the perfect excuse for being late.
05 The women’s sports watch
The Cut by Hermès Timepieces
With a track record for crafting luxury goods that become international icons, it comes as no surprise that Herm.s has released another watch design that feels fresh, modern and effortlessly elegant. Its new sporty women’s model caught the eye of every slim-lined watch lover at the Geneva showcase thanks to its minimalist design codes, classy curves and chic changeable strap, available in eight signature Herm.s hues. Low-key luxe dressers will likely gravitate to the understated stainless-steel version, while the steel and rose gold option with a delicate dusting of diamonds takes a less modest approach.