—interview by Thor Svaboe
Under the ownership of the Meylan family since 2012, Swiss watchmaking house H. Moser & Cie is celebrated for its blend of traditional technique and futurist flair. Here, parent company chief executive Bertrand Meylan shares how the independent brand strives to innovate and inspire.
In the world of haute horlogerie, where heritage and history often dominate the narrative, few brands have managed to marry past and future quite as elegantly as H. Moser & Cie. While many legacy watchmakers lean heavily on tradition, Moser has carved out a niche by balancing its distinguished history with a bold, contemporary approach to design. The result is a brand that captivates both purists and modern collectors alike.
Founded in 1828 by master Swiss watchmaker Heinrich Moser, H. Moser & Cie quickly established a reputation for precision and craftsmanship. Moser’s innovative spirit led to international success and saw him expand operations across Europe, cementing the brand as a leader in watchmaking.
Yet, like many venerable houses, Moser faced challenges maintaining relevance in an increasingly competitive market. The brand’s fortunes changed in 2012 when it was acquired by Georges-Henri Meylan—a former Audemars Piguet chief executive and relative of the seminal 19th-century Swiss watchmaker Claude-Henri Meylan.
Under Meylan’s leadership, with sons Edouard and Bertrand alongside, Moser has undergone a remarkable transformation to establish itself as one of the industry’s most intriguing houses.
“When the opportunity [to acquire H. Moser & Cie arose], we knew it was a once-in-a-lifetime chance,” explains Bertrand Meylan, formerly of Audemars Piguet and now at the helm of Moser’s parent company, MELB Luxe Subsidiaries, from his base in Hong Kong. “We loved the brand and believed in its huge potential.” He adds that while the venture was initially viewed as “a big risk for us as a family”, it turned out to be a gamble the entrepreneurial Meylans are very happy to have taken.
With Zurich-based brother Edouard running H. Moser & Cie, its market reach has increased markedly over the past decade, while Bertrand’s leadership of the holding group (which also owns Swiss watch brand Hautlence, and manufacturing firms Precision Engineering and Agenhor) has propelled international expansion.
Exposing Moser watches to a new generation of collectors everywhere from Doha to Tokyo to Sydney has not, however, diminished the brothers’ commitment to craftsmanship. By maintaining limited production, each piece remains rare, collectable and highly coveted.
Bertrand says that Moser’s identity— both now and in its foundational years—is tied to design that challenges conventions. A prime example is the mirror-like Swiss Alp Concept Black minute repeater tourbillon. A study in elegant simplicity, Moser’s thought-provoking take on the modern smartwatch defies horological norms by forgoing numerals and hands entirely. Infused with a thoroughly contemporary sensibility, this pared-back approach has become a hallmark of the brand.
“Our founder Heinrich Moser was a visionary,” says Bertrand. “He understood the importance of creativity and entrepreneurship, principles we continue to uphold today.
It’s about finding that balance between respecting our legacy while constantly pushing the boundaries of design and technical innovation—and also bringing some of our [the brothers’] personalities in.”
This ethos is most evident in Moser’s flagship, the Streamliner. Inspired by the aerodynamic aesthetics of 1920s locomotives and automobiles, the Streamliner’s design merges style and utility. Powered by Moser’s in-house automatic movements, the range showcases the brand’s knack for precision engineering and artistic elegance—with each new interpretation bringing a considered contemporary edge. One of the most recent (released earlier this year), is the art deco-inspired Streamliner Tourbillon Wyoming Jade. With its integrated bracelet, rose gold case and dial crafted from rare jade stone, it has naturally captured the attention of collectors worldwide.
Collaborations have also played a key role in Moser’s recent success. From its unexpected tie-up with cult LA streetwear brand Undefeated to co-creations with Swiss watchmaker MB&F, Moser is unafraid to experiment.
“Our first major collaboration with MB&F in 2020 came at the perfect time,” Bertrand recalls. “It created a huge buzz and pushed us to explore new creative possibilities.” The Undefeated collab (which produced a camouflage Streamliner wall clock earlier this year—a follow-up to the 2022 Streamliner Chronograph Camouflage Undefeated wristwatch) continued this tradition of pushing boundaties, as did its decidedly playful recent project with avant-garde British watch brand Studio Underd0g.
Today, H. Moser & Cie is a creative force that dares to rethink what a timepiece can be. Far more than reviving a sleeping giant, the Meylan family has positioned the near 200-year-old watchmaker as one of the most exciting names in independent watchmaking—offering collectors an inimitable blend of history, artistry and innovation.
Browse the latest collection at watchbar.au
TIME REDEFINED
Three conversation-starting watch designs.
Streamliner Tourbillon Wyoming Jade
With its eye-catching dial featuring jade stone sourced from the wilds of Wyoming, Moser’s 2024 limited-edition take on the popular Streamliner features a flying tourbillon complication, double hairspring technology and three-day power reserve.
Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon
Born from a decades-long friendship between Edouard Meylan and MB&F founder Maximilian Büsser, this 2020 release is a stunning tribute to collaboration and craftsmanship. Limited to just 15 pieces, its striking sculptural design integrates a unique three-dimensional cylindrical tourbillon and off-centre inclined sapphire dial.
Endeavour Centre Seconds Concept
This 2021 collaboration with enigmatic Parisian artist Romaric Andre (aka seconde/seconde/) brings a cheeky twist to Moser’s elegantly minimal aesthetic. Sporting a pixelated-style eraser-shaped hand, it offers a wry comment on the creative tension between old and new.